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A late payment you never missed or an account you don’t recognize can make borrowing more expensive, or derail an application altogether. Credit report errors are worth checking before you need a loan, but you can challenge them at any time. The process is free, and you don’t need to pay a credit repair company to make a dispute for you.
The work is less about writing a perfect letter than finding the source of the mistake and sending the right evidence to the right place. Here’s how to do that, including what to do if the first answer is no.
Get Reports From All Three Bureaus
Start with reports from Equifax, Experian and TransUnion. A lender may send information to one, two or all three, so credit report errors won’t necessarily appear on every report. The reverse is true, too: fixing an error with one bureau doesn’t automatically fix it everywhere.
Use AnnualCreditReport.com, the federally authorized site for requesting free reports from the three nationwide bureaus. You can also request reports by phone or mail if you prefer not to use the website. Save a copy of each report and note the date you obtained it. You’ll need the details if you dispute an entry or compare the corrected version later.
Check more than the score displayed beside the report. A credit score is calculated from report information; it isn’t a substitute for reading the underlying accounts and payment history. Different lenders may use different scoring models, so the number you see isn’t necessarily the one a lender will use.
Give yourself time to review the reports. Names of lenders may look unfamiliar because a company uses a parent company’s name or has sold an account. That doesn’t prove fraud, but it does give you something to investigate.
Separate Credit Report Errors From Surprises
Before filing a dispute, identify exactly what’s wrong. “My score is too low” gives a bureau little to investigate. “This account shows a payment as 30 days late in March, but my bank statement shows the payment was received on time” gives it a specific claim to check.
Look for these common problems:
- Accounts that aren’t yours: These may result from identity theft or a file mixed with someone else’s information.
- Incorrect payment history: A payment may be marked late when it was made on time, or an account may be reported past due after the balance was resolved.
- Wrong account details: Check balances, credit limits, ownership status and dates. An account marked as yours alone may actually belong to someone else.
- Duplicate reporting: An account appearing more than once deserves a closer look, especially if both entries suggest you owe the same balance.
- Personal information mistakes: An unfamiliar address or a wrong name may be harmless, but it can also point to a mixed file or fraud.
Some entries need context. A debt sold to a collection company may appear as both an original account and a collection account. That isn’t automatically an error. Check whether the original account’s balance and the collector’s information accurately reflect what happened, rather than assuming any two entries mean you’re being charged twice.
Likewise, an old address isn’t necessarily damaging. Still, an address where you’ve never lived, paired with an unfamiliar account, is a stronger reason to investigate. Contact the company using a phone number you find on an official statement or its website, not a number supplied in a suspicious message.
Build a Small, Specific Evidence File
For each credit report error you dispute, write down the bureau name, the account or reference number shown on the report, and the precise correction you want. If a payment is wrongly marked late, identify the month. If an account isn’t yours, say so plainly.
Then gather copies of documents that support your claim. Depending on the problem, those might include a bank statement showing a payment, a lender statement, a letter confirming an account was closed, or records showing a balance was paid. Keep the originals. If a document contains unrelated account information, consider obscuring that information while leaving the evidence readable.
A simple log will save you trouble later. Record the date you sent each dispute, where you sent it, any confirmation number and the response deadline you expect. Save screenshots of online submissions and copies of mailed letters. If you mail documents, a tracked mailing method gives you evidence of delivery, though it costs more than a standard stamp.
Don’t send a stack of documents without explaining what they show. A reviewer should be able to connect the evidence to the disputed entry without guessing. One clearly labeled statement is often more useful than a folder full of unrelated paperwork.
Dispute the Entry With Each Bureau
Each nationwide bureau offers online, mail and phone options for disputes. Use the instructions on the bureau’s official website or on your report, and follow its identification requirements. Send the dispute to every bureau whose report contains the mistake.
You can also dispute an account directly with the company that supplied the information, often called the furnisher. That may be a bank, card issuer, loan servicer or collection company. Check the company’s statements or website for its designated dispute address. Some types of information are better challenged with the bureau, so don’t assume a dispute to the furnisher alone will resolve every problem.
A short letter is enough. For example:
“I am disputing the late payment reported for my account ending in 1234 for March. The payment was received by the due date, as shown in the enclosed bank statement and account record. Please investigate and correct the payment history.”
Replace those details with your own, and include the identifying information the bureau or furnisher requests. For an account you don’t recognize, don’t guess at a payment history. State that the account is not yours and explain any relevant facts you know.
Keep disputes factual. Accurate negative information generally can’t be removed just because it hurts your score. A company promising to erase legitimate late payments is offering something it may not be able to deliver. Avoid anyone who asks you to invent an identity theft claim or misrepresent an account.
If you’re applying for a mortgage or another major loan soon, tell your loan officer about the issue and ask how a dispute could affect the application. A dispute and any subsequent correction may change how the lender evaluates the file. Don’t withdraw a valid dispute solely to make a problem disappear from view.
Review the Results, Not Just the Letter
Credit bureaus generally must investigate a dispute within 30 days, although the period can be extended by 15 days in certain circumstances, such as when you provide additional relevant information during the investigation. The bureau will provide the results when the investigation is complete. Keep that response with your original records.
A successful outcome might be a corrected balance, a removed late-payment mark or deletion of an account that isn’t yours. Read the updated report to make sure the actual entry changed as expected. If credit report errors appeared at more than one bureau, check each result separately.
If the bureau says the information was verified and you still believe it’s wrong, look at what evidence you sent. A bank statement showing money left your account, for example, may not answer a lender’s claim about when it received the payment. Ask the lender for its records, compare dates and account numbers, and send a new dispute if you have relevant information that wasn’t considered.
You can ask the bureau for a description of how it investigated. You can also ask to add a brief statement of dispute to your file. A statement may explain your position to someone reading the report, but it doesn’t erase the disputed entry or guarantee a better score.
If you’ve made a clear dispute and the problem remains unresolved, consider submitting a complaint to the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau. Include the dispute dates, responses and supporting documents. A complaint isn’t a promise that an entry will be removed, but it gives you another channel for seeking a response.
Act Quickly When Fraud Is Possible
An unfamiliar account, address or credit application may signal identity theft. It may also be a reporting mix-up. Either way, don’t wait for a score to drop before checking.
Contact the company associated with the account and ask its fraud department how to report it. Then consider placing a free credit freeze with each of the three nationwide bureaus. A freeze restricts access to your credit report for new credit checks, making it harder for someone to open accounts in your name. You’ll need to lift it when you want a lender to check your frozen report.
A freeze doesn’t close existing accounts or stop every kind of fraud. If an existing card or bank account is affected, contact that institution directly and ask it to secure the account. Change compromised passwords and review recent transactions as well.
You can also place a fraud alert. An initial alert tells businesses to take extra steps to verify your identity before extending credit. Unlike a freeze, it doesn’t generally block access to the report. Contact one nationwide bureau to place an initial fraud alert, and it must notify the other two.
For a suspected identity theft case, IdentityTheft.gov offers a way to report the theft and obtain a recovery plan. Keep copies of any report and correspondence. You may need them when dealing with bureaus, lenders or collectors, and additional identity-theft protections may be available.
Keep Checking After the Correction
Credit report errors can reappear if the underlying source continues to send incorrect data. After a correction, review your reports again and compare the account details with the outcome notice. If the same information returns, contact the bureau and the company reporting it, and include the earlier correction in your records.
Set a recurring reminder to check your reports rather than waiting until you apply for credit. It’s also sensible to review statements and payment confirmations each month. Catching a missed payment or servicing mistake early gives you a better chance of finding the records needed to resolve it.
Remember that a clean report and a strong score aren’t identical. Accurate late payments and high balances can still affect your credit. If debt is stretching your budget, a plan for balancing debt payments with savings addresses a different problem than a reporting dispute. Both may deserve attention, but one won’t substitute for the other.
Final Verdict
Check all three reports, dispute each specific error where it appears, and keep your evidence until you’ve confirmed the correction. Do the work yourself before paying anyone for credit repair. If an unfamiliar account suggests fraud, secure your credit and contact the affected company immediately.
Frequently Asked Questions
You can request free reports from Equifax, Experian and TransUnion through AnnualCreditReport.com, or request them by phone or mail.
Identify the specific mistake, gather supporting documents and dispute it with each bureau whose report contains it. You can also contact the company that supplied the information.
Credit bureaus generally must investigate within 30 days, although the period can be extended by 15 days in certain circumstances.
Review your evidence, request relevant records and submit a new dispute if you have additional information. You can also consider a complaint to the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau.
Contact the company’s fraud department, consider a free credit freeze with each bureau and report suspected identity theft at IdentityTheft.gov.
